Purling device for overedge sewin g-machines



(No Model.) 4 Sheets-Sl1eet 1.

J. G. GREENE. PURLING DEVIOEFOR OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINES. No. 598,339. Patented Feb. 1,-1898.

(No Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet 2.

J. G. GREENE. PURLING DEVICE FOR OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINES. .NO. 598,339. Patented Feb. 1,1898,

' 4 Sheets-#Sheet 3 (No Model.)

J. G. GREENE.

FUELING DEVICE FOR OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINES. No, 598,839.

Patented Feb. 1, 1898.

(N0 Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet 4.

J. G. GREENE. PURLING DBVIGE FOR OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINES.

No. 598,339 Patented Feb. 1,1898.

STATES JAMEs e. GREENE, OF ELIZABETH, NEW'JERSEY, ASSIGNOR MANUFACTURING coMPA Y, on EW JERSE TO THE SINGER PURLING DEVICE FOR OVEREDGE SEWING -MACHINES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 598,339, dated February 1, 1898. Application filed February 6, 1897. Renewed October 14, 1897. Serial No. 655,210. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JAMES G. GREENE, a citizen of the United States, residing at Elizabeth,

junction with any suitable overseamingstitch-forming mechanism and by means of which a purl may be formed along the edge of an overseam on the upper side of the Work, and if my invention be used in connection with a bu ttonhole or overseaming stitch-forming mechanism which produces a purl along the edge of the overseam or buttonhole onthe lower side of the work a double purl-edged or double-faced overseam or buttonhole will be produced.

In carrying my invention in its preferred form into effect I provide for use in connection with an overseaming or stitch-forming mechanism of otherwise ordinary or suitable construction a thread-eye or thread-guide and two thread-arms, which latter are forked or provided with open recesses or notches at their ends and one of which thread-arms has in operation rocking or vibrating movements. By the conjoint operation of the thread-eye and the two thread-arms a triangular loop of the purling-thread is formed just prior to the descent of the needle, preferably at the time when it is to make each overedge-stitch, and this loop is so held by the thread-eye and thread-armsthat the needle will pass into it, so that when the loop of purling-thread is tightened it will be drawn up around the needle-thread to form a purl along the upper side of the overseam, the overedge-stitches of the overseam being, as usual alternated with the depth-stitches thereof. The purling-loops may, however, be presented for the passage of the needle when the latter is descending to make the depth-stitches, in which case the purlingloops will, in being tightened, be drawn over to the edge of the work, and this can be partly or wholly effected by the tightening of the overseaming-stitches. In thus operating to form the purling-loops the thread eye is preferably (although not necessarily) given a slight vibrating movement, and for the purpose of. affording convenient clearance from the work, so that plenty of room will be afforded for the convenient manipulation of the latter in handling, the threadarms are preferably given reciprocating movements up and down or toward and from the work, these arms descending close to the work when a purling-loop is to be formed around the needle-thread, and then rising so as to be out of the way except when purlingloops are to be formed. If my invention be used in connection with an overseaming mechanism in which theoveredge-stitches are produced by a looper or needle rising from below and passing by the edge of the material, the overedge-thread will be carried upward instead of downward through the purlingloops.

Inthe accompanying drawings, Figures 1 and 2 are side views, partly broken out, of a well-known form of buttonhole-sewing machine with my invention applied thereto. Fig. 3 is a front end View of the upper part of the same. Figs. 4, 5, and. 6 are detail views of the purlin g mechanism.

A denotes the work-plate, and B the arm, of a buttonhole-sewing machine.

0 is the driving-shaft, journaled in the upper part of the arm B, and D is a vertical shaft connected by beveled gears c d with the shaft 0, so as to rotate at half the speed of said shaft 0. The shaft D carries a cam cl; operating a bell-crank lever E, joined by a connecting-rod c with a swinging frame F, in which the needle-barf reciprocates vertically, thus causing said needle-bar to descend alternately in different vertical planes,

Attached to the lower part of the depending head B is a bracket b, on which is pivotally supported a thread-eye lever g, the upper bent end of which is held in contact with the swinging needle-bar frame F by a spring 9, said lever having at its lower end a hole or aperture through which the purling-thread passes and which thus serves guide for said thread. a v

H is a bracket supported by the head B and provided with a sleeve or bearing portion h,

as an eye or in which reciprocates a rod or bar '5, jointed at its upper end to the forward end of a lever I, the rear end of which lever is provided with a pin or roller-stud entering a cam-groove d in the hub or cylinder (1 on which is formed the bevel-gear d. Rigidly attached to the lower end of the rod or bar '5 is a thread-arm z", the extreme end of which is notched or recessed to engage the purling-thread. Also secured to the lower part of the rod or bar i" is a bracket 70, having an upwardly-extending sleeve 75, in which is j ournaled a vertical rockshaft 4%, to the lower end of which is attached the thread-arm m, the extreme end of which is notched or recessed, so that it can engage the purling-thread. The rock-shaft m has secured to its upper-end a cam m which as the said shaft is caused to descend withthe rod 'i (with which rod said shaft is connected through the bracket 7c) comes in contact with a stationary roller-stud h near the lower end of the sleeve h to impart a rocking motion to the shaft m to vibrate the thread-arm m in one direction, the return movements of these parts being efiected, when the rod 1' rises, by a torsional spring.

In the operation of my invention the purling-thread will be led from a spool L through a tension device M to a guide-eye 'n, thence through an eye in the lower end of the takeup spring or controller N to a second guideeye a, and thence through the thread-eye in the lower end of the lever g to the work. The take-up movements of the take-up or threadcontroller N are preferably limited by a stop N. This take-up or thread-controller does not, however, tighten the loops of purlingthread around the needle or overed ge thread, each loop of purling-thread being tightened or drawn up when the next subsequent loop is formed, and this take-up or thread-controller while useful and desirable, is not an indispensable part of my purling mechanism. As the shaft D, from which the thread-arms t" m are operated, rotates but once to two rotations of the driving-shaft C, from which latter the needle-bar is operated, the said thread-arms t" m will'be operated to form a loop of purlingthread around the vertical path of the needle f only at each alternate descent of said needle, and preferably at the descents thereof at which the overedge-stitches are made. The swinging needle-bar frame F will be in its outer position or farthest to the left, Fig. 1, when the needle descends to make an overedge-stitch, and in this position of the said needle-bar frame the upper end of the threadeye lever 9 will be moved outward and the lower or thread-eye end of said lever inward to bring the thread guide or eye at said lower end toward the needle. The thread-arms 1 m are now so operated that their notched or recessed ends bend the purling-thread into a triangular loop extending about the vertical path of the needle f, so that the latter in descending passes with its thread into said loop of purling-thread, and the needle-thread bein g caught by the looper or shuttle thread remains in the work, and thus the loop of purling-thread is fastened into the overseam and is later tightened around the needle-thread, a succession of these loops of purling-thread forming a purl along the edge of the overseam on the upper side of the work.

My improved purling device may, as has been stated, be used in connection with any desired form of overseaming stitch-forming mechanism. In the buttonhole machine herein illustrated the looping mechanism is or may be the same as that shown in either of my United States Patents Nos. 304,638 or 360,434, which produces an overedge or buttonhole seam having a purl along the edge of the lower side of the work, and when my improved purling mechanism for the upper side of the work is used in connection with the looping mechanism referred to or.any other similar overseamin glooping mechanism forming a purl at the lower edge of the overseam a double-faced or double-purl-edged overseam will be produced. This is particularly desirable for. buttonhole-work in coats and other garments in which the buttonholes are more or less exposed on both sides.

While it is desirable that the thread-eye or thread-guide cooperating with the threadarms of my improved purling mechanism should be formed on a moving part, so as to be reciprocated toward and from the needle in order to afford a better clearance to the needle at the times when the purling-loops are ,not being formed, still I have found that good results may be secured by the use of a stationary thread-eye, and I do not therefore wish to be understood as limiting my invention to a movable thread-eye in my improved purling mechanism; also, although I prefer to reciprocate the thread-arms of my purling mechanism toward and from the work, so that they will be lifted out of the way to afford a convenient clearance for the work or buttonhole clamp when not actively employed in forming purling-loops, I do not wish to be understood as limiting my invention to the rising and falling thread-arms, as

these thread-armscan still perform their functions properly if not thus moved up and down.

I do not herein claim the improved overseam herein described, the same being embraced by my application, Serial No. 622,324, filed simultaneously herewith.

Having thus described my invention, I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent 1. In a sewing-machine, the combination with an overseaming stitch-forming mechanism of otherwise ordinary or suitable construction, of a purling, mechanism for producing a purl edge on the upper side of the work and comprising a thread-eye or threadguide, and two cooperating thread-arms, and means for imparting rocking movements to one of said arms; whereby by the combined operation of said thread-eye and thread-arms a loop of purling-thread, through which the overedge-stitch thread is carried, is produced.

2. In a sewing-machine, the combination with an overseamin g stitch-forming mechanism of otherwise ordinary or suitable construction, of a purling mechanism for producing a purl edge on the upper side of the work and comprising a vibrating thread eye or guide, and two thread-arms both of which are movable toward and from the work, and means for imparting vibrating movements to said thread-eye and reciprocating movements, toward and from the work, to both of said thread-arms, and also for imparting rocking movements to one of said thread-arms" in addition to its reciprocating movements.

3. In a sewing-machine, the combination with an overseaming stitch-forming mechanism, of a purlingmechanism for producing a purl edge on the upper side of the work and comprising a thread-eye or thread-guide, two thread-arms, means for imparting rocking movements to one of said thread-arms, and

a spring take-u p or controller for the purlingv thread;

4. The combination with stitch forming mechanism of an overseaming sewing-machine, of a purling mechanism for forming a purl edge on the upper side of the overseam and comprising the vibrating thread-eye lever g, the lever 1, its operating-cam, the rod '5 jointed at its upper end to said lever, the thread-arm 7; carried at the lower end of said rod, the sleeve 70 connected to said rod, the

rock-shaft m journaled in said sleeve and provided with the cam m the thread-arm m at the lower end of said rock-shaft, a stationary stud or roller against which said cam impinges, and a spring for effecting the return 40 movements of said rock-shaft.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

JAMES G. GREENE. 

